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 Post subject: Hawk HP vs. Hawk HP Plus
PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:57 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 7:48 pm
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Location: Brookings
I'm looking at replacement brake pads for the Miata and am considering a set of either Hawk HP or Hawk HP Plus pads. The HP Plus pads are supposed to (according to Tire Rack's Web site) offer greater stopping power than the HP pads, but will be much noisier and dustier and may cause greater rotor wear.

Since my Miata is a street car first and an autox car second, would the HP Plus pads perform (on the autox course) that much better than the HP pads to justify the increased noise, dust, and possible rotor wear? I realize I could have a set of track pads and street pads, but I'd rather have one set of pads to use full-time.

Regardless of which pad I went with, how many points, if any, would they add to the Miata? How many points would adding stainless steel brake lines add? How about rotors?

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Louis Whitehead - #77 - SCCS PR/IT
MX-5 Miata Sport, Civic Si sedan, Boxster S, C5 Corvette convertible, NX2000

"Before you attempt to beat the odds, be sure you could survive the odds beating you."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 6:40 pm 
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Location: soo foo
no point penalty for pads.

from my extensive research. the Hp pluses are outstanding for nasacross.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 8:43 pm 
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I use the + pads on the vette and I get a ton of brake dust. However I go through brakes at a lot faster rate than a light miata.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 9:09 pm 
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Cone Killer

Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:58 am
Posts: 159
hp+ are sweet pads they dust but are not that noisy on the street
i use Hp+ at auto x all the time


i drive them all the time on the z06, i swap to actual full track pads when i go to MAM


Last edited by dvandentop on Mon Jan 19, 2009 9:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 9:40 pm 
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Cone Dreamer

Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 4:05 pm
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I think that either of the Hawk HP pads will work. Don't go to a full race/track pad for auto crossing. They will not heat up fast enough to be usable.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 10:39 pm 
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RonInSD wrote:
I think that either of the Hawk HP pads will work. Don't go to a full race/track pad for auto crossing. They will not heat up fast enough to be usable.


+1

I've used both HPS and HP+ on my Civic. (no ABS) My experience is that the HPS is better suited for a car on street tires on a slick lot and the HP+ worked better on a car on R comps on a grippy lot. Brakes don't actually slow you down... your tires do. Your brakes slow your wheels down and it depends the friction between the tire and the surface on how well you slow. If I have a low grip surface on street tires, I tend to lock up the wheels and slide using HP+ pads. (remember, I don't have ABS) HPS work much better for me. For my car, on R comps on a grippy lot, I don't have that problem with HP+. I usually run in STS in my Civic so I use HPS pads. I also use HPS when I use R comps when autoXing. As always, your mileage may vary.

When I go to the track and generate more heat (and use R comps or not) I change to either Hawk Blue or HT-10. I also have dedicated rotors for track use as well. (read the info on the Stoptech pages linked in the fluid thread about pad/rotor film transfer for reasons)

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Jan G.
2007 SCCA RallyX RPF National Champion
92 Civic Si - TTF/NXF/STS/DSP (FSP for 2010!)
97 Mustang GT - TTE/NXE/ESP
93 Escargot LX - TTH*/HS/SF RallyX weapon!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 7:48 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2008 12:27 pm
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Location: Sioux Falls, SD
I agree with Jan. I ran HPS on the Integra and they offer very good stopping power and control. They also do not tear up rotors that bad. A good middle man set to go with. They do however still create a bit of brake dust, but nothing compared to HP+.

My suggestion for your miata is the HPS.

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Marcus Peterson - SCCS Treasurer
1990 GBM

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Lord, grant me the courage to trail-brake where I can, to accept that the timing light is correct, and the wisdom to know where to apex...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:55 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 7:48 pm
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Location: Brookings
Thanks for the advice, guys. Will any points be added to my car if I throw on a set of aftermarket rotors and stainless steel brake lines at the same time as the pads?

_________________
Louis Whitehead - #77 - SCCS PR/IT
MX-5 Miata Sport, Civic Si sedan, Boxster S, C5 Corvette convertible, NX2000

"Before you attempt to beat the odds, be sure you could survive the odds beating you."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:51 am 
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Cone Dreamer

Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 4:05 pm
Posts: 133
scribe wrote:
Thanks for the advice, guys. Will any points be added to my car if I throw on a set of aftermarket rotors and stainless steel brake lines at the same time as the pads?


What type of rotors are you looking at? I would stay with factory style rotors. Stay away from the drilled and slotted one everyone seems to think they need. For autocrossing you want to build a little heat in the brakes. The pad compound will effect the braking at this level more then anything. Plus you should be on the brakes that much.

I don't know about the points. I would go with the stainless steel brake lines because they will give you and firmer and safer pedal.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 7:47 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2008 12:27 pm
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Location: Sioux Falls, SD
No points for braided lines or anything on the brakes.

_________________
Marcus Peterson - SCCS Treasurer
1990 GBM

Quote:
Lord, grant me the courage to trail-brake where I can, to accept that the timing light is correct, and the wisdom to know where to apex...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 3:22 am 
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Course Worker

Joined: Sat May 24, 2008 1:00 am
Posts: 29
Jan in Omaha wrote:
I also have dedicated rotors for track use as well. (read the info on the Stoptech pages linked in the fluid thread about pad/rotor film transfer for reasons)


Those papers are actually not half bad
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/tech_ ... pers.shtml

Thanks for pointing me to the link, I read something I had never seen anywhere before about bleeding brakes:
"3. Install one lug nut backward at each corner and tighten the nut against the rotor surface. Note that this step is to limit caliper flex that may distort pedal feel. "
Makes sense... I suppose it would be almost like pad knockback if your rotor was loose.. don't know why I've never thought that one through before.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 7:31 pm 
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Cone Killer

Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:58 am
Posts: 159
HP+ ftw

they are pretty dusty i drive with them full time in my car.

they so sqeek sometime but not too bad. hp might be better if you are concerned with them making noise


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